Patience
Spigot's flow slows through the Armory Show--plus a wine-issue teaser
Friends! Spigot will maintain a lesiurely summer pace into early September, returning with an Armory Week report.
Premium subscribers, however, will receive a treat later today—a special wine round-up featuring various vintages that have slipped through the cracks over the last months, plus revisitings of a couple ones I’ve already discussed.
To entice you to sign up with hard-earned cash if you haven’t already done so, here’s a taste, below.
Cornucopia Oenophilia
Estézargues “Get Down” Grenache Blanc. I don’t like to toot my own horn, dear reader, but I happen to reside in the fourth-coolest neighborhood in the world. Being endlessly ahead of the curve has its downside, however. In the case of my home district of Ridgewood, QNS, the drawbacks include rising rents and, worse, the proliferation of people who appear to have actual jobs.
The crown jewel of the retailers servicing this influx is Rolo’s, a suburban wet dream of a restaurant whose self-designation as “a neighborhood wood-fired bar and grill” would be accurate only if the neighborhood in question were the four most sophisticated square blocks in Montclair, New Jersey. Their menu offerings include Hamachi crudo, waygu skirt steak, and “war style” crispy potatoes. Which uprising Rolo’s took up arms in, I’d like to know.
You will be shocked to learn that Rolo’s owners include a real-estate developer whose nearby tenants include in a single building the most blinkered businesses in Ridgewood—the natural-wine shoppe Fôret; the limply named Pizzeria Panina; and the cocktail lounge Sundown, whose name has, by contrast, caustic connotations with racial segregation. I’m working on a Dimes Square style sobriquet for this run of establishments, before a branding firm earns several hundred thousand dollars for arriving at the unintentionally ironic “the Sundown Strip.”
Anyway, this spotted lanternfly sucking the soul from a sweet, mixed-up, middle-class slice of Queens and poisoning it with its moldy excreta—well, as you can imagine, it has a pretty good wine list.
For the rest, become a paid subscriber today!